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The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
This edition first published in 2009 by John WIley & Sons Ltd
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-0-470-69728-3 (paperback)
ISBN 978-1-912177-47-9 (eBook) ISBN 978-1-912177-48-6 (Mobi)
Introduction
Who is this book for?
Introducing the author
1 Quick-start guide
2 Which boat?
3 Which engine and trailer?
4 Getting afloat
5 Launching
6 Starting out
7 Very small boats
8 Mooring
9 Life begins at 25 (knots)
10 Man overboard
11 Charts and buoyage
12 Tides
13 First aid
14 Engine and trailer troubleshooting
15 Get knotted
16 Rule of the road
17 Anchors
18 Towing
19 Waterskiing
20 Recovery and the road
Acknowledgements
Powerboating is fun. The sensation of speed as you skim across the water in a fast, planing boat is terrific, and the sun, spray and sea air can all combine to make it an unforgettable experience. You will want to go out again and again, and may even buy a boat of your own. You may want to use it for waterskiing, as a dive boat or simply for transport across a big lake or between islands. You may need a safety boat with your sailing club or diving school. You may just enjoy messing about. But either way, you will need to know what you are doing.
In the UK you can purchase a boat, climb onboard and take it out without any previous experience. In most other countries you need an ICC (International Certificate of Competence). With more and more boats on the water and an increase in the frequency of accidents and near misses, many people and government bodies are calling for restrictions on use and looking towards requiring people to hold Certificates of Competence before they can use their boats. Most inland waters in the UK now require some form of certification. Insurance companies and marinas can often insist that insurance is held. That follows on from the customer holding certifates of competence. Before very long it is likely that you will have to pass a test before you can take your boat out to sea.
If you follow most of the advice in this book and practise all the exercises you will be well on your way to becoming a skilled boat handler. You should have no difficulty in obtaining a Certificate of Competence, if you need one. But more to the point, you will find that your powerboating is what you hoped it would be – fun.
If you are the skipper of the family boat, not only will you have to choose one wisely, you will also probably be responsible for maintaining it. This includes arranging adequate insurance cover, buying suitable clothing and boat equipment and making appropriate preparations every time you take the boat out. If you use the boat commercially it is vital to have a regular maintenance programme. Once again, the responsibility for this usually falls on one person.
In sailing clubs there is usually one person responsible for looking after the boats and sometimes this can be a full-time occupation.
This book is for anyone who is thinking about going afloat with a small powered dinghy, sportsboat, inflatable, small cruiser or semi-rigid inflatable boat. A comprehensive and informative handbook written by one of the top professional boat trainers in the country, it is suitable for leisure powerboaters and professionals. We recommend it as the ideal accompaniment to the RYA™ Powerboating courses.
However, the book is primarily aimed at the enthusiastic amateur who is starting out on the water for the first time. The contents will give the reader all the essential material that should, or could, be covered whilst training. Each subject opens with top tips and questions and answers intended to cover the needs of both amateur and professional users. The instructional material is easy to follow and supported by true stories.
This is a great book for anyone who believes that there is more to the subject than glancing at headings and sub headings and ticking boxes!
It is essential reading for members of water-based clubs operating safety and rescue boats.
This handbook does not claim to solve every mystery involved in boat handling but it does provide sound ideas based upon experience.
Peter White has spent over 40 years on the water, of which the first 15 years were spent teaching young people to sail dinghies and training RYA Instructors and Senior Instructors. He is now a professional powerboat trainer.
Peter says, “I don’t go to work. I just go boating.”
Before you even put the boat in the water, make sure you have:
■ a suitable boat (This is not a joke. I have seen boats launched and sink.);
■ protective clothing;
■ personal buoyancy for everybody;
■ fuel;
■ fenders and lines;
■ boathook and paddles;
■ food and water;
■ charts and tide tables,
■ weather report;
■ the KEYS and KILL CORDS.
Once the boat is in the water:
■ Safely stow all equipment, spare fuel and ropes.
■ Turn the electrics on where necessary.
■ Let the crew know what you plan to do.
■ Inspect engine, propeller and mounting.
■ Lower the engine.
■ Start engine.
■ Check cooling system.
■ Check kill cords are working correctly.
■ Ensure there are no obstructions to the propeller.
■ Test the steering from lock to lock. (Count the number of turns.)
■ Decide how you are going to depart.
■ Check the direction of the wind and water.
■ Use kill cord.
■ Look where you are going.
■ Engage brain.
■ Engage gear.
■ P Power
■ O Oil
■ W Water
■ E Electrics
■ R pRopeller
The toggle in place. Secure the other end round your leg, your wrist or to your lifejacket.
Conditions always look better when the sun is shining!
Obtain local weather reports to ensure it is safe to go out. At this stage, if in doubt, ask.
Without the correct equipment, wind chill will significantly reduce your body temperature and inhibit your operating ability.
Rain will reduce visibility and, without appropriate equipment, can lower your body temperature and take the pleasure out of the experience
The most important factor, apart from sun and rain, is the wind, since this will determine the state of the water. Strong winds build large waves, while the direction of the wind determines the nature and effect of the waves. Wind strength is measured on the Beaufort scale. The direction is defined by the source of the wind: a westerly gale blows from the west. Wind is measured at 33ft (10m) above sea level in clear air; its strength is reduced by about a third at sea level.
A line squall, typical of a cold front or trough of low pressure in cold air.
Beaufort Force |
Description |
Boating Conditions |
Wind Speed (Knots) |
0-3 |
No white horses |
Comfortable |
0-10 |
4-6 |
White horses |
Uncomfortable |
11-27 |
7-9 |
Spume and spray |
Dangerous |
28-47 |
10+ |
Large waves and no visibility |
Calamitous |
48+ |
Try this quick reference guide to wind strength, if you know the strength of the gusts in knots: knots divided by 5 plus 1
Example |
10 knots ÷ 5 + 1 = Force 3 |
It works the other way too: shipping forecast force, subtract 1, multiplied by 5
Example |
6 - 1 x 5 = 25 knots |
Anything above Force 7, don’t bother to subtract 1; it’s a rough guide but often good enough for making passage planning decisions.
Wind and tide can combine to significantly worsen any condition.
If in doubt, don’t go out.
Tides are the vertical rise (flood) and fall (ebb) of a body of water. The size of the tide is directed by the relative positions of the sun and the moon. When sun, moon and Earth are in line, we experience the highest and lowest of the tides (springs). When we see half a moon, tidal range is at its lowest and we do not experience very high or very low tides (neaps).
Local tide tables can be found in your nautical almanac or from the local harbour master.
High tide is at 1254 on Sunday 16 June and is 11ft (3.5m) above chart datum and it is a new moon.
Your chart is your map at sea. Before starting out, you should understand the following principles:
■ latitude, longitude and the scale and date of the chart;
■ true, magnetic and compass north;
■ Chart Datum (CD) or Lowest Astronomical Tide (LAT);
■ transits and bearings;
■ course through the water.
By using all or some of this information, you can accurately find your position on Earth.
Taking bearings from three easily identifiable objects on the chart, convert bearings to true. Plot your lines – they should form a small triangle. You should be in or near that triangle. If this is not the case recheck or take a fourth bearing.
All latitude and longitude gridlines on charts are shown in true. Remember to adjust for variation and deviation.
GPS relies on communication with a number of geostationary satellites. By calculating the difference in time between the GPS unit and the satellite, your position on Earth can be accurately pinpointed. Your unit will give you a latitude and longitude reading – remember that latitude comes first. (Always remember to carry spare batteries for your hand-held GPS unit.)
Enter the latitude and longitude of your waypoint in your GPS. If you press ‘Go to A’, your GPS draws a line from your current position to the waypoint and gives you a bearing and distance from the waypoint.
Remember:
■ It will give you a straight-line course regardless of shallows, rocks or land.
■ Do not make a lighthouse or anything solid a waypoint – you might hit it.
■ Confusing degrees and minutes, and minutes and seconds.
■ Working down the page in the northern hemisphere and up in the southern hemisphere. Always increase numerically in the right direction.
■ With latitude, the errors are normally east or west. For example, when travelling from A to B on different sides of the 000° line, you must input west for A and east for B. The difference is considerable.
■ Recording tenths and minutes in the wrong direction. Ensure the scale is building north or south of the equator, and east or west of Greenwich.
In an ideal world, we would always launch and recover in flat water with no wind or tide, on a fairly steep, ribbed, concrete slipway. However, in the real world this is not often the case; waves, tide, seaweed, mud and wind complicate launch and recovery and it is your responsibility to plan a safe exercise. Always seek advice from local officers.
Launching on a shallow slope. Tie a bowline around the trailer if the boat is not too heavy.
Loop the rope around the car’s ball hitch.
Allow gravity to take the boat and trailer down into deep water, the rope sliding around the ball hitch.
■ Find a suitable site and check availability. Angle, width and construction are critical to a safe launch.
■ Establish local protocols and bylaws.
■ Position vehicle and boat out of the way of other slipway users, especially emergency vehicles.
■ Remove lighting board and electric cable from the trailer and place them in the vehicle.
■ Remove cover and ties from boat and engine – do not detach strop from bow winch. Also consider a separate safety strop.
■ Pre-launch checks (see page 8)
■ Ensure engine is tilted up on the hydraulics or locked in the up position if manual.
■ Reverse to water’s edge and then put one competent person onboard.
■ Check depth and reverse trailer wheels into the water ensuring vehicle remains dry.
■ Final checks: wind strength and direction and stream.
■ In sufficient depth of water it is possible to drive the boat off and on the trailer.
■ Where it is too shallow to run the engine, launch the boat and stand with it while trailer and vehicle are removed and made secure.
Recovering the boat is essentially the reverse of launching it. If possible always put at least one crew member ashore to prepare vehicle and trailer. This person should be prepared to get wet, and should line the bow up with the trailer and connect the strop.
WARNING
A free-running winch handle can break your arm.
Driving a boat in a straight line in open water is easy. Most problems occur at slow speed in confined spaces. Creative use of wind and current can greatly simplify manoeuvres.
THREE-POINT TURN – TOP TIPS
Always spin the wheel from one lock to the other before engaging gear. You need to know the number of turns and also that the steering is free.
On a jet boat you do not have to change lock to achieve your three-point turn.
You should aim to approach the buoy in a controlled manner and pick it up easily without using reverse gear. To do this, you have to be aware of:
■ wind direction and strength;
■ current direction and strength;
■ wind and current direction combined;
■ weight of boat carrying way;
■ speed of boat – most people travel too fast;
■ available room to manoeuvre and escape.
To determine wind direction, look at smoke, flags, and direction of waves and ripples. Waves created by wind and undisturbed by other craft will be at 90° to the wind.
To find the direction of the current, look which way the buoy is leaning and watch the swirl of water around posts and jetties – the wave pattern will show you the water direction.
To pick up the buoy:
■ Stop with the buoy on the bow or alongside.
■ Raise pickup by hand or boathook.
■ Tie your painter to the chain or buoy using a round turn and two half hitches.
To depart:
■ Start up procedure using pre-start checks.
■ Nudge forwards or alongside using engine – don’t overshoot.
■ Check vicinity for clear water.
■ Engage brain.
■ Release painter and slip.
■ Secure painter.
Approach slowly, into the tide or wind so it stops the boat.
Pick up the small buoy.
Tie your painter to the chain from the large buoy.
To leave the buoy drive up to it, cast off then allow the boat the drift clear.
Approaching a windward or leeward jetty, always remember:
■ Assess wind, tide, current and depth of water.
■ Crew communication.
■ Fenders at correct height and made secure.
■ Lines in correct positions (tied to the boat!).
■ Plan an escape route.
Downwind jetty
■ Approach slowly.
■ Balance boat in wind and current.
■ Neutral.
■ Boat drifts onto jetty.
■ Secure boat.
■ Plan an escape route.
Windward side (heavy wind):
■ Fenders at bow.
■ Attach bow spring.
■ Engage forward at jetty, full lock. Gear in, out, in, out.
■ Roll bow against jetty.
■ Stern swings out.
■ Engage neutral.
■ Release spring.
■ Spin wheel to opposite lock.
■ Engage reverse.
■ Stern swings into wind.
■ Move away.
Upwind jetty
■ Approach jetty at approx 20°.
■ Engage neutral, allowing boat to carry way.
■ Engage reverse before striking jetty.
■ Pin wheel at jetty.
■ Stern swings in as forward speed comes off.
■ Engage neutral.
■ Secure boat.
■ Plan an escape route.
On leaving a jetty, always remember:
■ Pre-start checks;
■ Check departure route is clear;
■ Communicate your plan to the crew.
Alongside an upwind jetty
■ Helm straight, gently push
■ Release lines.
■ Boat drifts away from jetty.
■ Control boat against tide and current.
Alongside a downwind jetty (light wind)
■ Similar to upwind jetty, but…
■ Essential to push bow out at least 20°.
■ Helm straight
■ Engage gear with engine straight to protect stern of boat.
When in doubt, using the bow line as a spring should always get you out of trouble. It is important not to dawdle with the controls.
Before considering driving at high speed, check:
■ Sea conditions are suitable.
■ Visibility.
■ Density of traffic.
■ Local speed regulations.
■ You have appropriate safety equipment on board.
■ IMPORTANT: Remove crew from bow position and into area of safety in small boats.
■ Crew are safe, prepared and happy.
■ Boat is balanced.
As you start to increase speed, it is essential that you are aware of the position of the engine, or trim tabs where fitted. A poorly trimmed engine is inefficient and could be uncomfortable or even dangerous.
As boat speed rises, ensure engine is straight and trimmed down so bow digs in, to ride the bow wave. As you increase power, the hull lifts over the bow wave, the bow wave moves towards the stern. The bow stays low and speed increases. Now trim up to lift the bow. The hull is freed to move over the water at high speed. You can now throttle back to maintain economical cruising speed.
■ Always keep hand on throttle lever unless using foot accelerator.
To turn:
■ One hand on the throttle, the other on the wheel.
■ Look where you are turning and look behind.
■ Notify crew.
■ Trim down to make sure the propeller does not ventilate.
■ Look again, and behind.
■ Make a controlled, gentle turn.
■ Increase power in the turn where appropriate to maintain planing speed.
TOP TIP
A perfectly trimmed boat is easier to drive, safer and more economical.
These are two of the most important knots:
Bowline: Can be used in most applications and will not come undone when under load. Use a half hitch to make it more secure, if left for a long period.
Round turn and two half hitches: Use where you need to be able to release a knot under strain. It can easily be turned into a fisherman’s bend for a permanent knot.
TOP TIPS
Always wash your ropes with fresh water after use and hang up to dry.
Always buy the best ropes available and seek advice.
Always carry a 6ft (2m) length of light rope. You’ll be amazed at how useful it will be, whether for temporarily lashing two boats together or keeping your trousers up.
VHF
Helm responsibility
The moment you hear the shout ‘Man Overboard’:
■ Reply, ‘point at casualty’.
■ Hit MOB button on GPS if available.
■ Make a Mayday call where appropriate.
■ Get the boat under full control.
■ Slow down.
■ Turn towards the same side as the MOB if possible.
■ Assess wind direction and determine method of approach.
■ In light conditions, consider the broadside approach.
■ Balance the boat across the wind, allowing time for the boat to stop naturally.
■ Drift down onto MOB.
■ Shut down engine 6ft (2m) away.
■ Consider heaving line if boat is downwind of MOB.
MOB responsibility
Improve your chances of survival by:
■ Shouting as you fall overboard, otherwise you may not be noticed.
■ Closing your mouth as you hit the water.
■ Inflating your lifejacket if you are not wearing a buoyancy aid.
■ Keeping calm – you may be in shock.
■ Remembering that in swell, you may not immediately be able to see the boat.
■ Checking yourself for injuries; hitting the water at speed is like hitting a brick wall.
■ Remaining still and bringing your knees together and up towards the surface.
■ Holding your arms close to your sides, place your hands in your groin area – this will help you to keep warm and to survive for up to one third longer. This obviously only works if you are wearing a Personal Flotation Device (PFD).
■ Watch for the return of the boat.
Getting the MOB back on board is not covered in this section due to the wide variety of techniques required for different types of boat.
The best way of making sure you don’t have problems to troubleshoot is to ensure that your boat and equipment are always well maintained and up-to-date. However, there is always the unexpected.
If the engine will not start or fails whilst underway, you must source the reason. It must be mechanical, electrical or a fuel problem.
Engine won’t turn over:
■ No electricity – check battery, isolator switch, fuse and wiring. See if other electrical equipment is working.
■ Engine may be in gear. Most should not start in gear.
Engine turns over but won’t start:
■ Kill cord not attached.
■ No fuel.
■ Stale fuel – replace with fresh or use a recommended additive.
■ Fuel lines – check they are connected, and not kinked or damaged.
■ Fuel pump – check priming bulb. If empty, prime.
■ Water in the system – check water separator and drain if necessary.
Engine stops instantly:
■ Rope round propeller.
■ Electrical problem.
■ Kill cord detached.
Engine falters or stutters:
■ Fuel starvation.
■ Engine overheating.
Steering fails:
■ Hydraulics fluid – check level and leakage. If low top up.
■ Cable snaps due to rust and corrosion. Strap paddles to engine outboard cover to make a tiller.
Propeller:
■ Fails to turn. Old and small engines – shear pin is broken. Modern engines – thrust bearing is slipping. Replace shear pin or propeller. Potential gearbox failure.
■ Vibration – damaged blades. Aluminium can be filed, gently reshaped or rebuilt. Stainless steel often needs to be replaced.
■ Carry a spare propeller and the means to change it – a floating spanner. Work in a bin liner attached to the engine to catch anything you drop.
Cooling system:
■ No telltale on outboard engine – check telltale is not blocked. A thin piece of wire can be used to remove blockages (hair grip or paper clip). If still blocked, remove hood, disconnect tube from inside of engine and start engine. If still no water, lift engine leg and check inlet grating is not blocked by a plastic bag. If still no water, consider a tow.
Cavitation:
■ Propeller starts cavitating in a straight line with correct trim – switch off engine, lift and check for obstructions or damage around the lower leg.
The keys to successful and worry-free anchoring are choosing the right size and type of anchor and ensuring that you have enough chain and (sinking) rope. Your rope should be long enough to let out at least five times the depth of water at high tide. In choosing an anchor, you must bear in mind the seabed and depth of water – harbour masters are an excellent source of advice about how and where to anchor. Charts, pilot guides and almanacs include information about suitable anchorages. When abroad – see what the locals use.
Setting your anchor in wind and current:
■ Select anchoring location and check depth, traffic and hazards.
■ Avoid a lee shore anchorage if you can and ensure you have room to swing at low tide. Keep clear of other boats at anchor.
■ Ensure anchor is free, ready to run, marked in lengths and secured to boat.
■ Select angle of approach, considering wind and current directions and strengths.
■ Watch for swimmers.
■ Allow boat to stop naturally and begin drifting astern or sideways.
■ Communicate with the crew.
■ Lower anchor and allow chain or rope to run until anchor reaches seabed.
■ As boat drifts astern, let out approximately five times the water depth of rope. Mark rope to determine length let out.
TOP TIP:
If anchoring at low water, with intention of remaining for several hours, increase the amount of rope let out by five, to allow for high water.
■ Allow the line to take the tension and cleat off.
■ Nudge astern to confirm anchor is holding.
Ensuring your anchor is holding:
■ Take transits from at least two fixed objects on the shore, such as a tree and a church.
■ Recheck occasionally, (could use GPS).
Watch out for:
■ Swinging onto other vessels.
■ If the tide falls whilst you are at anchor, your position will change.
■ If the tide rises, you may have to let out more line or reset your anchor.
■ If, on recovery, your anchor is stuck, try reversing in the opposite direction or rotating astern in an arc to screw the anchor out.
Buoys provide information on safe passages as well as being useful navigation aids. Usually you are only likely to find extensive buoyage in areas of commercial interest; otherwise look out for innovative improvisations such as trees or scaffolding poles. Interestingly there are two different systems in use around the world. North and South America, Korea and the Philippines are in Region B; the rest of the world is in Region A.
It is always your responsibility to ensure that you do not have a collision – you may have to depart from the rules to be safe, ensuring you do not make the situation worse.
■ Power gives way to sail.
■ A sailing vessel under engine is a power vessel.
■ Power and sail give way to large vessels.
■ Vessels approaching each other head on should alter their course to starboard (right) to avoid a collision.
■ When power vessels are crossing, the vessel with the other on its starboard side should keep clear.
■ If the vessel is on your port side, maintain course and speed. Escape route would normally be to starboard.
■ You must keep clear of the vessel you are overtaking, but you can overtake either side. Starboard is the safest side because most escape routes will be to starboard.
■ When being overtaken you should maintain course and speed – maintain a 360° watch.
■ A sailing vessel overtaking must still keep clear.
Safe powerboating at night requires a sound knowledge of navigation, boat handling and crew communication and thorough boat preparation including passage and emergency planning.
You must have a well-prepared boat with:
■ a large, well-lit compass;
■ a hand bearing compass with light;
■ GPS;
■ depth gauge (sonar)
■ laminated charts and Portland Plotter (you can use your fingers as dividers if necessary!);
■ a sharp knife;
■ a horn;
■ instrumentation that can be read at night;
■ a tidal curve with up-to-date information;
■ a searchlight and spare batteries;
■ light sticks and flares (inshore and offshore);
■ lifejackets with emergency lights and EPIRBs, if possible;
■ a waterproof hand-held VHF as well as fixed VHF;
■ reflective strips on clothing; plus
■ consider a life raft and self-righting gear for longer passages.
Before you depart, log the plan and inform friends and the harbour master or the Coastguard of your destination and ETA. In the UK, ensure you have lodged a CG66 with the Coastguard; it contains vital information regarding your boat and its equipment in the event of a search. Your final check should be for the latest tide and weather information.
Always try and work with at least two boats for maximum enjoyment and safety. Only consider travelling at planing speed if you have the visibility. Make sure you have practised all the relevant techniques in daylight before you attempt them at night. If in doubt, don’t go out.
■ You would not drive a car at speed, along country roads at night, without lights – the sea is no different!
For ease of identification by other vessels, it may be necessary to display more than the minimum all-round white light. Ideally, you should display the following:
Do not rely on others to display the correct lights, but in principle they should be displaying the following:
Under 7 m and speed under 7 knots May show all-round white light only.
Power-driven vessels underway (RULE 23). Under 12 m May show all-round white light (instead of masthead light and sternlight) + sidelights.
under 50 m Masthead light - sidelights and sternlight.
over 50 m Masthead light - second masthead light aft and higher - sidelights - sternlight.
Vessels under sail (Rule 25) Sidelights and sternlight only - no masthead light. But small yachts (under 20 m) may combine all these into one tricolour at the masthead. A sailing yacht when motor sailing shows the same lights as a power vessel. So engine on, steaming light on.
Vessels trawling (Rule 26) A vessel trawling (ie towing some kind of net) shows all-round green-over-white lights. Show regular navigation lights when making way, but not when stopped.
Vessel fishing (Rule 26) All-round red-over-white lights, plus sidelights and sternlight (if making way).
If you have broken down and are drifting, consider your location and the conditions, the nature of your breakdown, whether you need to anchor, and how you are going to recover from your problem.
How to attract attention and get assistance:
■ VHF;
■ mobile phone;
■ EPIRB;
■ GMDSS;
■ whistle;
■ lights;
■ flares;
■ horn;
■ waving arms and clothing above head;
■ shouting;
■ smoke.
Watch other craft for anything unusual that could indicate a problem.
Prior to any tow, agree fees, if any – a verbal agreement made on the water is legally binding.
Long tow for use in open water:
■ Ensure towed boat is far enough astern from towing boat to avoid ramming as towed boat surfs downwind.
■ Crew weight to stern of towed boat to prevent veering (small boats).
■ Both boats must be able to instantly release the towrope.
■ Towline should be at the centre line of the towing boat or on a bridle.
■ As towing boat pulls away, let off line and take up slack. Ensure all fingers are clear.
■ Agree the speed of the tow.
■ Communicate whilst under way.
On arrival at a marina or jetty, you may need to change to an alongside tow for use in confined areas:
■ Find a sheltered area and pick up a mooring, drift or anchor
■ Depending on where you plan to manoeuvre to, tow boat should attach fenders to the relevant side.
■ Pull rescued boat alongside, but slightly ahead, which gives you better steerage and control.
■ Attach tow boat’s painter to towed boat’s stern.
■ Attach lines bow-to-bow and stern-to-stern.
■ Prepare a spring from towed boat’s bow to tow boat’s stern.
DO KEEP CALM
■ Get yourself and/or the boat safely to the casualty.
■ Consider wind and current.
■ Reassure the casualty, crew and your own crew.
DO ASSESS THE SITUATION
■ Is there any danger?
■ Ask the casualty and crew members what happened. Take a history.
DO MAKE THE AREA SAFE
■ Make sure there is no further danger to the casualty or yourself.
■ Remove the casualty from the water if possible.
■ Consider hypothermia.
DO GIVE FIRST AID
More than one casualty? Treat in the following priority:
■ drowning – unconscious and not breathing;
■ bleeding;
■ broken bones;
■ other injuries.
If you suspect the casualty is not breathing due to drowning, if possible place the casualty on their back, with their head back to open the airway. Do five inflations to clear the airway and get air into the lungs. The priority is to open the airway. Inflations can be carried out in the water.
Then do 30 compressions (CPR), followed by two inflations, followed by 30 compressions. Repeat sequence until casualty revives, help arrives or you are too exhausted to continue.
If you are alone, do five inflations followed by chest compressions for one minute. Then get help. Return and continue as above.
It is essential to attend a First Aid course.
To really enjoy and benefit from the sport we require three ingredients:
If there are any doubts in your mind, abort the trip and find something else to do.
Check and continue to check:
■ weather forecast – expected;
■ weather actual – what you can see and feel;
■ tides – high water and low water times and direction of stream;
■ assess how the wind strength and direction will react with the speed of the tidal stream or river current.
Look at other boats on the water:
■ How do they lie?
■ Where do they point?
■